Some History About the Cortez Kitchen by Long-Time Cortezian, Rose Lipke
Just like our lives, places have chapters and seasons, and looks may change, people come and go, the essence remains. It all started way back in July of 1999. Peter Baredda opened the Cortez Kitchen in Cortez, Florida in what was once the retail fish market at the end of 119th street. The name reflected the deep connection between the people and the waters surrounding the little fishing village. The bay to the south has always been referred to as “The Kitchen” by generations of Cortezians as the place where your food came from. Pete wanted to capture that spirit with both the food served and the open-air atmosphere of the place, and he did. It was an instant hit with locals and tourists alike.
My connection to this place began with its humble beginnings. I had just gotten divorced a few months before and had moved back to Cortez to start my life over where it had begun. I had a small sign business and Pete asked me to paint the signs for the new restaurant. As opening day approached, he was still shy a bartender, and he asked if I would be willing to stand in until he found someone. That turned into almost 4 years. The entire original staff was comprised of people who not only grew up here but were (and still are) all friends. It was a special kind of magic that rarely happens in this industry. It’s also where that magic of community has continued ever since, even after I gave up my bartending position to my big brother BJ all those years ago.
There are so many memories and milestones connected to the Kitchen for me. My kids literally grew up there. It’s where my daughter China requested we celebrate her 16th birthday, and where I have celebrated more than a few, including a big blowout for my 50th. It has become a place with its own unique character and identity that directly reflects the spirit of Cortez and carries a deep sense of connection for all who frequent it.
In September 2004, Pete handed the torch to Joe Oleker. Joe carried on the name and the spirit of the Kitchen, and yes…I have painted a few signs for Joe over the years as well. His mom Carolyn became our mom, in fact most people only knew her by “Mom.” It’s the place where we gathered to ride out tropical storms and hurricanes, at least the small ones. It’s where we spent countless Friday and Saturday nights sharing laughs and beers, hanging with our “tribe” and listening to some of the best live music the area has to offer. For almost 20 years, Joe kept the torch burning and it remained the best local spot in Cortez. Earlier this year, Joe sold the Kitchen to John Banyas so he could care for mom, whose health had been deteriorating over the past few years.
I would be remiss to not take a moment to remember the people who helped make the Kitchen so special that are no longer with us to celebrate this newest chapter in Cortez Kitchen history. We lost our favorite Brasilero, Delmar Apolonio in 2018. Founder Peter Baredda’s memory is proudly displayed on the surfboard hanging above the front door after losing him suddenly in 2021. Longtime bartender and my big brother BJ Lipke left us that same year. Joe has perhaps suffered the most loss, which includes Peter, Delmar, and BJ, whom he often referred to as “the brother I never had,” but also his daughter Sara and just this year, Mom. All these people have left their mark on the ongoing story of the Cortez Kitchen, and on our hearts.
As one chapter ends, another invariably begins. It is the nature of life. As of this writing, I am painting the new signs for the new/old Cortez Kitchen. And although the building is undergoing a much-needed remodel, the spirit and the character of the Kitchen remains.
If you have a favorite memory you’d like to share, please comment below so we can all see what the Cortez Kitchen has meant to you over the years!
The “new” Cortez Kitchen will be opening very soon. Watch the Suncoast Post for future updates.
Photos from “Captain” Jim Hartzell